Lavender. True classic herbal fragrance. Not sweet. Not soft. Colored dark purple of course!
Basic Info: My jar candles are amazing. Actually they were the very first product I ever produced, back in 2001 when my retail store opened. The store may have closed but the candles live on. This is a 9oz (jars are designated by the volume, not the actual weight) jar filled with traditional wax (paraffin base) that holds the maximum fragrance possible. Each jar should burn for at least 40 hours but I've often gotten well over 50hrs. Follow the tips to help you get the most out of your purchase. Lead free wicks, of course. Each jar candle is poured to your order, so all scents are always available (of course, I may be out of seasonal fragrances outside of the fall/winter time of year, but if I have the fragrance I'll pour it for you!). Please allow a minimum of 5 working days for your candle to be made prior to shipping. Usually it will be faster, however!
Color: Each scent has a normal 'pour color' and I'll let you know in every listing what that is. Not all monitors show colors the same way, so please use my description as a guide even if the color looks different. Since I do pour each candle individually, even a fraction more colorant can dramatically change the color. So if it says 'pink' it could range from light to medium (for example). Some colors are formed from several dyes (just like in art class...) and that can also mean slightly different due to handcrafting each as a solo unit. 'No color is added' that doesn't mean your candle will be pure white. See the last image where 4 different scents were poured without any additional colorant. The change from pure white wax is due to the color of the scenting wax. In all things, I want you to be happy, so let me know if you have any questions prior to ordering. Candles are custom products and cannot be returned or exchanged for not liking the scent or the final color of the candle.
Tips: Candles should always be burned for 1 hour per inch of width to avoid tunneling. Tunneling is when the candle burns down but leaves a lot of wax residue on the sides. Let the melt pool touch the sides of the jar before blowing out the flame. Doing this will help the jar burn evenly. For this candle, that's about 3 hours at a time. You can burn longer, of course, but 3 hours is my recommendation. Also as wax burns, the wick lengthens as the wax evaporates. A longer wick has a bigger flame and that also helps to consume the wax faster. Again, burn for 3 hours. Blow out the candle. Let the wax harden and trim the wick to about 1/2" before lighting again. That will give you the longest life. Of course when the candle isn't burning, put the lid on!
Always burn candles on heat resistant surfaces (tile, stone or tempered glass) and away from drapes or flammable items such as holiday decorations. Keep away from small children or curious pets. Hot wax is...hot...but does cool quickly upon removal from flame. If you've ever had a hot wax manicure or pedicure you know what I mean. However, it can make a mess which is difficult to remove especially on carpeted surfaces. Take a bit of care and you'll have hours of enjoyment.
Finally, scent throw. I pour my candles as strong as possible (weighing scent for each & every candle to ensure quality) but some scents are just not as strong as others. I can pour a Rose Petals candle and a Lavender and you'll swear the Lavender is 4x strong. It isn't. But the Lavender scent, itself, packs a stronger punch. Another trick or tip if you find less than optimal scent flow in a space is to move the candle. Yep, move it (sometimes even a foot or two) can get the fragrance into the airflow of a room. You've likely noticed that some areas of the house get dustier than others. That's often because the air flow in that space isn't as dramatic as others. For that reason, if you put a candle in a space like that, you may not find the aroma permeating as you'd love. Move it out of that space and you'll see a big difference!